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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru is matured in 60% new oak. It has a finely tuned bouquet with scents of granite filtering through the green apple and pear aromas, and just a little linseed oil in the background. The well-balanced palate displays a fine bead of acidity, good tension from start to finish and a…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Village, matured in 15% new oak, has an intense bouquet with cold flint and sea cave aromas that you would guess come from a much cooler growing season. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a touch of bitter lemon and a dab of spice towards the cohesive…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Deep ruby color. Very rich, deep aromas of kirsch and chocolate liqueur. Superripe, sweet and concentrated, with surprising lift and energy to the plush, layered flavors of dark berries, fruity dark chocolate and leather. Finishes impressively long, with chewy, firm tannins and enticing sweet oak. A superb vintage for this Margaux. I am partial to…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Dark ruby-red. Precise though very ripe aromas of red fruits, licorice and minerals are complicated by Oriental spices. Then juicy, leanish and a bit tart in the mouth; began youthfully sullen but opened with air to show more seductive flavors of spicy dark plum, blackberry, soy sauce and underbrush. This finishes clean and long, with…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 La Gaffelière has a rather over-the-top bouquet with smudged definition. It feels as if it underwent a warmer or longer maceration than its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly viscous texture on the entry, lower acidity than many Right Banks, glossy and honeyed in texture towards the finish. Not really my…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Cos d’Estournel is beautifully delineated and layered in the glass. A wine of nuance and precision, the 2012 possesses a remarkable combination of richness and detail. A blast of dark red cherry jam, rose petals, mint and cinnamon informs the deep, pliant finish. I imagine the 2012 will offer several decades of very…