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Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

Bollinger’s 2007 R.D. is superb, but it is also a wine that reflects the nature of a unique and challenging growing season. In most vintages the R.D. is marked by the distinct creaminess and breadth of Aÿ Pinot Noir. Two thousand seven, though, was a difficult year marked by very dry weather, rain at the…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Marsannay “L’Ancestrale” has a gorgeous mulberry scented bouquet with heather and a touch of peppermint in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with good grip on the entry, redcurrant and cranberry fruit, very saline on the finish with very good length. There is a sense of…”bounce” in this Marsannay.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de La Bussière 1er Cru, which includes 55% whole bunch, has a transparent and distinctly marine-influenced, oyster-shell tinged bouquet. It is a little more floral than previous vintages – delicate, even. The palate is medium-bodied with a quite saline, lightly spiced entry. Touches of white pepper and clove develop toward the…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru has a much more meaty and tertiary bouquet than its peers from possibly a small addition of whole bunch, the oak influence just a little more conspicuous than I would have liked. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy, angular tannin, blacker fruit emerging towards the finish with a…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(from a yield of just ten hectoliters per hectare, according to Roumier; vinified with 55% whole clusters): Bright, dark red. Subdued aromas of dark raspberry and crushed stone. Dense, sappy and seamless, with harmonious acidity energizing the flavors of red berries and minerals. At once sweet and savory, this rather plush wine boasts terrific mouth…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Village, which includes 35% whole bunch, has a very composed bouquet of disarmingly pure, predominantly black fruit laced with blood orange. Very succinct. The medium-bodied palate features crunchy black fruit with traces of licorice, gaining in density toward a finish that grips gently and evolves a Morey-like structure. Just a touch of…