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Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The 2019s (Jun 2022)

The Vosne-Romanée Cuvée Duvault-Blochet is a wine the domaine has quietly made for some time. In the past, it was mostly allocated to restaurants in France, but that has started to change. Seductive and beautifully perfumed, the 2019 1er Cru is a fabulous introduction to the Vosne-Romanée wines that form the core of this tasting….

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Lafleur is quite a bit less showy than most Pomerols in this vintage. I suspect the high percentage of Cabernet Franc may have something to do with it. Aromatically intense, but also austere, the 2005 feels like it needs more time. The bouquet is captivating, but huge tannins make Lafleur much less accessible…

Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 2005 Lafleur does not quite match up to previous examples and certainly juxtaposed against the 2000 Lafleur, I have a preference for the millennial. Still, I am quibbling. It has a tightly-wound bouquet at first with blackberry, wild strawberry, black truffle and minerals that only reluctantly unfolds over the course of two or three…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 895) Saturated, bright ruby-red. Brooding, liqueur-like aromas of blackberry, cassis, smoked meat, licorice and menthol. Compellingly dense, sweet and concentrated, with silky fruit that saturates the entire palate without any excess weight. A very backward, firmly structured wine that offers an uncanny combination of early sweetness and firm but harmonious acidity. The wine’s dark…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru has a gorgeous bouquet of intense red fruit, undergrowth, cedar and orange blossom aromas. The medium-bodied palate is lithe and deep, delivering fine tannins, red berry fruit and great tension and depth on the finish. This is an immense Chambertin, one where winemaker Cyrielle Rousseau has managed to impart a…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru has a very intense, brilliantly-defined bouquet with laser-like precision, incredibly focused and perfectly integrated oak. Less generous than Bichot’s Chambertin at the moment though – this is biding its time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, insistent grip and plenty of freshness. Maybe just a little more confit…