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Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

Philippe Blanc mentioned how the 2004 Beychevelle was picked ten days earlier than wanted because of rot. “We harvested ten hectares of Merlot in a day, on a Sunday, which saved us,” he recalls. It has quite a punchy bouquet with ample redcurrant and cranberry fruit, clove and thyme, though it lacks the precision and…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2012 Cristal is the first made entirely from biodynamically farmed vineyards. Passionfruit, mango, spice and ginger open first, but it is the wine’s textural richness and volume that stand out most. The 2012 is one of the most opulent, flamboyant recent Cristals. Those qualities feel especially amplified in this tasting, perhaps because of the…

2011 Vintage Ports (May 2014)

Bright, deep, saturated ruby. Liqueur-like ripeness to the deeply fruity aromas of kirsch, black raspberry and cassis. Thick, sweet and seamless, with a silky texture and great depth to its utterly primary dark berry and spice flavors. Wonderfully pure, intense young port with outstanding finishing sweetness, well-judged oakiness and big, ripe, noble tannins. Leaves behind…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 Lafite hits the palate with a burst of dark red and purple fruit. White flowers, mint and licorice all develop in the glass, adding layers of depth and complexity. Smoke, tar, cinnamon, graphite, dried violets and plums are all layered into the resonant finish. The style is up-front, textured and generous, with no…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

(98% cabernet sauvignon and 2% merlot): Medium red-ruby. Very precise, pure, flinty raspberry and coffee aromas are complicated by an intense violet note. Then almost steely in the mouth, with a bright, juicy personality to the flavors of red berries, plum, graphite and minerals. This struck me as quite mouthfilling without being at all heavy….

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Lafite-Rothschild is a slightly muddled nose, and certainly, compared directly with the other Rothschild, there is not the same level of delineation and complexity. The palate is thankfully better with mint and eucalyptus on the entry. It’s moderate depth with a pastille-like style. The 2013 doesn’t really deliver First Growth sophistication on the…