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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The bottle of 1982 Léoville Las-Cases was sadly out of condition, though fortunately I tasted another example at a private dinner in Bordeaux a few weeks later. To be honest, I have always preferred the 1985 or 1986 to this vintage, and this gives me no reason to change my mind. It has a surliness…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium ruby. Aromas of currant, black cherry, licorice, minerals and flowers. Thick, sweet and deep; still young but in a gentler, lower-acid style than either the ’86 or ’96. Still, this boasts sneaky intensity and wonderful persistence. Tannins are substantial but thoroughly ripe. Drink 2004 through 2025.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne 1er Cru comes from just under a single hectare of vines next to Blagny. It has quite a stern, austere bouquet at the moment, a little overshadowed by the Puligny Village. The palate is well balanced with light citrus lemon, white peach and lime notes on the entry, moderate weight…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2003)

Very deep red-ruby. Smoky, deeply concentrated fruit bomb of a nose: blackberry, dark plum, cassis; creamy vanilla and lightly toasty coconutty oak; and ethereal background notes of white pepper, smoked meats, musky spices, tar and licorice. Profoundly concentrated but velvety-smooth and seamless; impressively muscular and thickly coated with oak, and bound by drying, astringent tannins….

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2008)

The 1998 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill opens with intriguing, exotic notes of smoke, cured meats and tar. This is a big, sweeping Sir Winston Churchill endowed with layers of perfumed ripe pears, quince, flowers and spices in a style that balances a generous expression of fruit with acidity and minerality. Everything is in the…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

Light gold. Intensely aromatic nose offers a complex bouquet of smoky orchard and pit fruit aromas, along with exotic orange zest and white pepper. Deep and chewy, displaying impressively concentrated but brisk pear and bitter citrus pith flavors and an undercurrent of buttery brioche and lees. Finishes with palate-staining persistence and a subtle anise quality….