Archives: Product Reviews

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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Canon just misses a little delineation on the nose, smudged red berry fruit, desiccated orange peel, camphor and fresh figs. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, a generous dab of white pepper sprinkled over the red fruit, clove and sage towards the balanced and focused finish. Perhaps just compromised by the aromatics…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2005 Batailley is dark in hue with little aging on the rim. The nose is backward, tight and almost “moody”, piqued that it did not undergo a three- to four-hour decant. Firm tannins frame the palate. The oak may not be as assimilated as the best 2005s. Dark chocolate and espresso hints develop with…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2000 Ducru-Beaucaillou is very deep in colour. Surprisingly, the nose is very backward in this example with quite intense black cherries, boysenberry, prune and fig aromas, gaining clarity and vigour with aeration (serious decanting is advised for this millennial.) The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins. Stocky, but not muscular, this has a firm…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright ruby-red, less saturated than the 2002. Very pure aromas of cassis, minerals and mocha, with a hint of raw berries. Juicy, pure and tightly wound, with intense flavors of dark berries, bitter chocolate, espresso and licorice. Broadens impressively on the long, aromatic, suave finish, showing lovely grip and class. Finer than Borie’s 2000 Grand…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2002)

Multidimensional nose offers baked apple, orange oil, acacia honey, white chocolate, toffee and earthy low tones. Expansive, superconcentrated and powerful but not aggressive, with wonderfully sweet flavors of orange, flowers and honey supported by strong underlying structure. An amazingly solid Champagne with the stuffing for extended development in bottle.

Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

As good as the 1995 Cristal (Late Disgorged) is, the 1996 may be even a touch better, as it has a bit more volume and also more layers of intensity. Taut yet wonderfully explosive, with fabulous energy, the 1996 captures all the best qualities of the vintage. In most 1996 retrospectives, Cristal makes a case…