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Champagne 2013: The Spring Preview (May 2013)

I am thrilled with the way the 2004 Comtes de Champagne continues to evolve in bottle. A few years ago, the 2004 was quite focused and linear, in the style of the vintage, but more recently, the wine has begun to fill out beautifully. The 2004 remains bright, with a full range of citrus, white…

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2004 Dom Pérignon P2 is precise and wonderfully refined, just like the first release. There’s a hint of reduction from extended time on the cork as well as a feeling of effusiveness that is so appealing. Readers will find a super-classic DP. Dried flowers, brioche, apricot preserves, sage, mint and chamomile are seamless in…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Cos d’Estournel was showing wonderfully when I last tasted it at the vertical in 2018, yet five years on, I wonder whether that point in time represented its apex? Here, it has a concentrated bouquet with mulberry, stewed plums, touches of licorice and leather, slowly moving into its secondary stage. The palate is…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Saturated ruby-red. Brilliant nose features kirsch, dark berries, and iron scents, with an overlay of perfumed, spicy oak. Lush, sweet and fragrant in the mouth, with a sappy freshness; clearly made from low yields. Finishes with toothcoating but suave tannins and remarkable persistence; stains the palate with spicy bitter cherry and citric skin flavor. As…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Medium-deep red. Plum, currant, mocha and brown spices on the nose. Lush and sweet, with moderate density and harmonious acidity. Perhaps a bit livelier in the mouth than on the nose. Not nearly as ripe on the back end as the ’98, but has sneaky finishing flavor.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Canon-la-Gaffelière has quite a deep color with little aging on the rim. The earthy, rustic bouquet features iron filings, meat juices and wild mushroom notes; it is certainly very different from today’s wines. The well-balanced palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin and leather and chestnut notes, and a little austere in style with…