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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 800-$2,000) Good deep ruby-red. Knockout nose offers terrific vinosity to the aromas of dark raspberry, mocha, minerals, licorice, menthol and dark chocolate. Lush, fat and suave, with superb energy and lift to the fine-grained, palate-staining flavors. Despite its rather high 14% alcohol, this boasts near-perfect balance and finishes with outstanding verve. A great vintage…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Medium red-ruby. Plum, currant, brown spices, leather and tobacco leaf on the nose, along with some smoky oak. Distinctly firm and herbal but with a sweetly spicy quality to the flavors of cassis, lead pencil and tobacco leaf. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins and a repeating herbal note.

2005 and 2004 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2007)

((tasted from tanks, awaiting final blending. #1) Explosively floral, with remarkable purity and a strong licorice tone. #2: Spicier sample, with strong cherry pit and graphite on the palate and a bright, zesty quality. #3: Solid and chewy, with strong bitter cherry, dark chocolate and tobacco qualities (this batch gives the wine its skeleton). #4…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2012 Brut Vintage is a tasty, straightforward Champagne to drink now and over the next handful of years. Orchard fruit, baked apple tart, pastry, dried flowers and chamomile all grace this open-knit, easygoing Champagne.

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2011)

(81% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc, and 9% merlot; pH 3.69; IPT 60; 12.2% alcohol; 76% new oak; a 79% selection): Bright red with a pale rim. Knockout nose of aromatic herbs, strawberry, sweet spices and acacia flower; yet another wine strongly marked by its cabernet franc presence. Fresh and vibrant, this absolutely dances on…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep red. Knockout smoky nose of cedar, leather, earth, truffle and game. Then rather tightly coiled and far less pliant than the nose would suggest. Strong acids contribute to this wine rather powerful structure. But I don’t find the flesh shown by the best wines from this vintage. Finishes quite firm, youthfully backward and…