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Taittinger: Comtes de Champagne 1971— 1998 (Aug 2010)

The 1994 Comtes de Champagne (magnum) shows lovely richness in burnished tones of apricots, spices and flowers. Soft, seamless and opulent, the fruit caresses the palate in a rich, up-front style. This isn’t the most powerful Comtes but it is among the most rewarding vintages to enjoy today and over the next decade.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Pale but bright color. Very subtle, complex nose combines lime, lemon, orange peel, ginger, wet stone and mint. Very fine, persistent mousse. Expansive and dense on the palate, but quite fresh and dry. Wonderfully complex and subtle. Finishes brisk, strong and very long. Doesn’t have quite the depth of the greatest vintages, but this is…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 1998 Lynch-Bages shows less aging, and the fruit here is darker and more compact than others in this era: blackberry, wild hedgerow, cedar and a touch of wild mint. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rustic tannins, blackberry, briary, iron rust and an underlying bitterness that just dries out the finish a little. This…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

Though I have tasted the 1998 Haut-Bailly many times, this is the first time in magnum. It has an intense bouquet with blackberry and cassis. The violet element is a little stronger than I discerned on other bottles. The palate is medium-bodied with plenty of weight and density, powerful though almost pipped by the Pape…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Haut Bailly has been a great wine that coincided with the château’s acquisition by the late Bob Wilmers. It has a sublime bouquet with blackberry, boysenberry, crushed stone and hints of violet. After twenty years it is still so youthful. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly firm tannin at the beginning, plenty of…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Dark red. Plum, currant, tar, tobacco, smoke, cedar and minerals. Supple and dense, with excellent precision of crystallized red berry flavors thanks to ripe acids and firm minerality. Very dry, sophisticated finish is long and gripping. The merlot was even better in ’98 than in ’00, said Sanders, but in a different style.