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2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

Les Cruzelles, Denis Durantou’s Lalande de Pomerol, is once again impressive in 2015. There is notable volume and unctuousness to the super-ripe red cherry, espresso and mocha flavors. The 2015 needs another year or two to come together, but it is super-impressive. Les Cruzelles is 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc from gravelly soils. The…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Les Cruzelles is tasted from two bottles. The one at the blind tasting just felt a little out of sorts. The second bottle opened at home allowing aeration replicates its showing just after bottling: dark cherries and crushed strawberry, a succulent palate with a hint of black olive on the finish. That’s more…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Domaine de Chevalier has a perfumed, quite floral bouquet with rose petals and cedar infusing the red berry fruit, nicely detailed with blacker fruit uncovered by aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, sweet and rounded, very plush in style with a caressing, femme fatale of a finish. I have actually encountered…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

One of the stars of the vintage, the 2015 Domaine de Chevalier has turned out even better than I expected. Bright floral notes give striking aromatic lift to the rich, sumptuous fruit. A marvelously complete wine, the 2015 is racy and silky on the palate, yet also has tremendous freshness. Bright red cherry, blood orange,…

Rheingau & Mittelrhein Riesling: Rising to 2017’s Challenges (Aug 2019)

Apple and orange on the nose anticipate this bottling’s subtly citrus pip- and kumquat-tinged juiciness. “I associate orange and kumquat with those parts of Kiedrich [Einzellage: Sandgrub] that are on the Eltville side and have quite heavy clay,” observes Fricke. There is a polish to the texture here that is relatively rare for the vintage,…

Loire Valley Cabernet Franc (Dec 2014)

Dark ruby with garnet highlights. Flamboyantly ripe aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry, tar, menthol and licorice. Denser and yet more delicate than the basic estate Saumur-Champigny, with flavors of blueberry, violet and chalky minerals framed by juicy acidity. Here the tender tannins are better integrated because of the warmth of the vintage. This will probably outlive…