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2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Forts de Latour has turned out beautifully. Pliant, supple and open-knit, the wine is super-expressive, even at this early stage. There is lovely depth to the dark red cherry, plum and leather nuances, all in the vivid, articulate style that is found in the best 2014s. Best of all, the 2014 Forts de…

Cellar Favorite: 2012 Château Latour (Apr 2020)

The 2014 Les Forts de Latour is one of those wines that deserves an hour to open and then observe it coalescing in the glass. The bouquet is initially high-toned and then mellow to reveal attractive scents of red fruit, cedar and incense. The palate is maybe a more malleable than I anticipated, clearly a…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux has a lovely, open nose with more red than black fruit, cedar and undergrowth, touches of black pepper. Good vigour here. The palate is well balanced with sappy red fruit, though because of the vintage, it feels a little monotone and slightly underripe on the finish, doesn’t quite…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good bright red-ruby. Cassis, black cherry, violet, licorice and herbs on the perfumed nose. Then a bit tart and tough in the mouth, with black fruit and licorice flavors accented by pungent pepper and aromatic herb nuances. Slightly gritty tannins clash with strong acidity on the finish, giving the wine a lightly sour edge and…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Les Butteaux 1er Cru offers intensity similar to the Montmains, but this is a little more petrolly on the nose, which is beautifully defined and very focused, developing a faint nuttiness with aeration. The palate is well balanced and conveys a sense of energy on the entry. Saline to its core, this…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Petit Chablis offers light apple blossom and crisp citrus peel scents on the nose, pretty but not complex. The palate bursts with dewy green apples on the entry and razor-sharp acidity. Short and straight-to-the-point on the finish. This should drink well for 4–6 years.