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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru has an austere nose that demands coaxing from the glass; struck flint and sea spray scents, cool, calm and collected. The palate is taut on the entry, then fans out with glee, notes of dessicated orange peel, white peach and tangerine, a lovely bitterness that counterbalances the concentration on…

Vinous Table: Providence, Los Angeles, CA (Feb 2020)

The 1996 Dom Pérignon P2 is another absolutely stellar Champagne. When it was first release, the 1996 was painfully austere, but time has added a great deal of flesh to match the wine’s vibrant, energetic personality. Both 1996s are magnificent. We are off to the races.

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 2 (Sep 2007)

(70% tempranillo and 30% graciano) Inky violet. Intensely perfumed nose offers a room-filling bouquet of dark berry liqueur, toasty oak spices, incense and lavender. Deep, sweet and impressively complex, offering flavors of blackberry, candied plum, floral pastille and baking spices. Big but supple tannins add support to this palate-staining monster, which boasts surprising freshness on…

Focus on Spain (Sep 2014)

Inky purple. Smoke-accented aromas of dark fruit preserves, cured tobacco, sandalwood and potpourri, with a sexy vanilla quality gaining power with air. Fleshy and seamless in texture, offering deep cherry, blackcurrant and mocha flavors and a touch of anise. Shows excellent breadth and sweetness on the youthfully tannic finish, which leaves smoke and bitter cherry…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Latour is a wine that I often find overrated and did not achieve everything that might have been possible in this favourable growing season. That said, this might well be the best of around two dozen bottles I have encountered over the years. As usual, the 1996 is decidedly austere at first, standoffish,…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Saturated ruby-red. Dark berries, violet, licorice and a note of torrefaction. Explosive, pure flavors are almost too big for the mouth. Finishes with big, sweet tannins and expanding, exhilarating flavors of pruneaux and crystallized dark berries. Perfectly integrated oak. A great Latour.