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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Lafite-Rothschild is one of my favorite vintages of the decade, and this bottle, served blind, replicates its showing at their 150th anniversary vertical. However, at first, it feels a little disjointed on the nose, but it coheres in the glass, offering lovely blackberry fruit, hints of pain d’épices, black truffle and meat juices….

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is very airy, weightless and lifted. The 35% new oak is not especially evident. The 2018 shows real finesse and aromatic intrigue. Citrus, white flowers, chalk, white orchard fruit, white pepper and mint come together in a very pretty and gracious wine with a long, persistent finish.

Close to the Edge: Chablis 2018 & 2019 (Sep 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru felt a tad reduced compared to the other Grand Crus, and this just obscured the terroir expression. The palate also shows a slight reduction, but is redeemed by a fine line of acidity. Then it just loses its way toward a finish that does not deliver the precision…

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2012 Cristal Rosé is magnificent. When Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon started to move Roederer towards organically farmed fruit, he started with Cristal Rosé, Roederer’s smallest production cuveé. Because of that, Cristal Rosé is the wine in this range that shows the current Roederer style in its fullest expression. Rich, vivid and crystalline in…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pavie-Decesse is heady and explosive in the glass. Inky red/purplish berry fruit, rose petal, lavender, mint and cinnamon are all kicked up. Racy and opulent to the core, with impeccable balance, Pavie-Decesse has so much to offer. It has come together beautifully over the last two years and today shows a bit less…

The Future’s Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Nov 2019)

The 2018 Pavie-Decesse was picked on 3 October (just one day). It has an intense and unashamedly floral bouquet with plenty of dried violet petals infusing the black cherry and blueberry fruit – very precocious. The palate is medium-bodied with velvety tannin, great weight in the mouth with a harmonious finish that just needs to…