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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Medium yellow color. Brooding aromas of pineapple, pine needles, toffee and nuts. Dense, full and quite dry, with penetrating fruit, hints of oak spice, and powerful acids that have not yet come into harmony. But this extremely impressive young Bollinger vintage shifts into a higher gear on the back end, showing even more flavor intensity…

Opus One – Past, Present and Future: 1979-2012 (Jun 2013)

The 1986 Opus One surprises for its bright, racy personality. Here the fruit is distinctly high-toned, while the aromatics remain lifted and focused almost to the point of being piercing, which is needless to say unusual for a wine of this age. Then again, 1986 was a year of significant flooding, so it may simply…

Opus One – Past, Present and Future: 1979-2012 (Jun 2013)

The 1986 Opus One surprises for its bright, racy personality. Here the fruit is distinctly high-toned, while the aromatics remain lifted and focused almost to the point of being piercing, which is needless to say unusual for a wine of this age. Then again, 1986 was a year of significant flooding, so it may simply…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2006 Dom Pérignon Rosé is every bit as captivating as it was last year, maybe even more so. At times powerful, but in other moments finessed, the 2006 constantly changes in the glass, revealing a different shade of its personality with every taste. Perhaps most importantly, the 2006 seems to have gained a level…

Vinous Table: Le Bistro de L’Hôtel de Beaune, Beaune, France (Apr 2019)

The bouquet is drop-dead gorgeous, lively and broad, and beautifully defined as always, offering scents of citrus fruit, toasted walnuts and a hint of brioche. The exquisitely balanced palate displays spine-tingling mineralité and real tension and grace. The long, quite deep finish makes me wonder whether this 2006 will meliorate with further bottle age. Should…

Champagne: New Releases and Collectibles (May 2014)

Broad, ample and resonant on the palate, the 2006 Cristal dazzles with its pure richness and volume. Readers need to give the 2006 another 4-5 years in bottle, perhaps longer, as the wine appears to be shutting down a bit. Tasted next to the 2002, today the 2006 is a bit less opulent but just…