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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 700-$2,300) Bright medium ruby. Knockout nose combines black- and redcurrant, minerals, graphite, licorice and lavender. Wonderfully suave and seamless, but with great purity and precision of flavor and terrific inner-palate perfume and lift. This dances over every square millimeter of the palate. Almost painfully young today, with an impression of fresh acidity serving to…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Saturated ruby. Displays highly perfumed aromas of dark berry preserves, cherry-cola, pipe tobacco, smoky oak and vanilla, along with exotic spice and floral topnotes. Smooth, broad and appealingly sweet, intense, spice-laced blackcurrant, cherry, candied violet and mocha flavors show outstanding depth and energy. The dark fruit and floral notes resonate on a strikingly long, seamless…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

(Saturated, bright ruby-red. Great nose offers a full range of aromas) cassis, raspberry, bitter chocolate, licorice, Asian spices. Dense, lush and sweet; a superripe Ornellaia that almost miraculously remains elegant. The raspberry and chocolate character follows through in the mouth. Finishes very fresh, with big, broad, chocolatey tannins and a late note of leather. Turned…

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 1998 Ornellaia (magnum) is the least impressive vintage in this flight. Hints of oxidation come through in notes of beef bouillon and mushroom, suggesting that either the wine has not developed particularly well in bottle or this is not a perfect example. Ideally, the 1998 is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. In 1998…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Opaque garnet. Vibrant, finely detailed cherry liqueur, dark berry, exotic spice and floral qualities on the expressive nose, along with hints of mocha and incense. Stains the palate with sweet, penetrating red and dark fruit, violet pastille, chewing tobacco and spicecake flavors that pick up a vanilla flourish on the back half. Smoothly blends power…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1996 Pichon-Lalande has long been one of my favorite wines from this period. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot, it has a quintessential Pauillac nose: very intense, brilliant and delineated, with pure blackberry, graphite and mint aromas bursting from the glass. The palate seems to…