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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Dark ruby-red. Ripe, expressive nose combines cassis, roasted plum and coconut. Supple, very concentrated and large-scaled; actually rather backward today even if the terrific ripeness is clear to see. Quintessential firm Pauillac backbone is covered by flesh. Will rely more on its tongue-dusting tannins than its acidity to age in bottle. This wine firmed up…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Grand Puy Lacoste is showing some bricking on the rim now. Mellow on the nose with sous-bois, morels, warm gravel and just a touch of mint. This is fully mature. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a little hollow on the mid-palate with dry tannins, and slightly metallic, perhaps? A tertiary GPL…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Good red-ruby. Black fruits, licorice and shoe polish, with a light roasted note. Then dry, inky and penetrating, with medicinal black fruits and nutty oak showing. Finishes with dusty, even tannins and an edge of acidity. Classic, rather austere Pauillac, with moderate texture and ripeness.

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Bright yellow. High-pitched aromas of lemon, apple, spices, crushed stone and white flowers. Utterly seamless, silky wine with compelling elegance to its flavors of white peach and white flowers. This Chevalier boasts a creaminess that will give it early appeal, but its penetrating chalky finish also gives it grip and lift for a graceful evolution…

Napa Valley: The Frantic 2020s & Stunning 2021s (Feb 2023)

The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is impressive. Elegant and poised, the 2018 is a wine of reserve at this stage. Dark red/purplish berry fruit, mint, sage, spice, mocha and dried flowers open first, followed by a kick of vibrant acids that lends notable energy throughout. All this young Cabernet needs is time in the bottle…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Village comes from the usual 12 parcels situated in 7 lieux-dits. This has a reserved, backward nose that takes time to open in the glass. It’s a bashful thing. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead if acidity but again, it is tight and linear. Just a touch of…