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Bordeaux’s Radiant 2015s (Apr 2016)

The 2015 Rocheyron is a huge, massively endowed St.-Émilion marked by considerable richness but even bigger tannins that clamp down on the fruit and convey an impression of austerity. This is a work in progress. For now, there is little pleasure here.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Corton Grand Cru contains fruit from plots of replanted vines for the first time this year, and also 80% whole bunches. Bertrand de Villaine told me that the blending was done a little later than their other crus. Matured in 100% new oak, it has an attractive bouquet of brambly red fruit, blueberry…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Montlandrie is just as imposing as it was from barrel. Readers will have to be patient with the 2019, as it very clearly needs time. Swaths of tannin wrap around a core of black fruit, chocolate, leather, spice, incense and licorice. There's real depth and gravitas here, along with strong Cabernet aromatics that…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Montlandrie has quite an intense nose with blackberry, briary and desiccated orange peel scents, nicely delineated and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, cedar-infused black fruit, fresh and nicely structured with a quasi-Médoc finish that conveys a sense of energy. Very fine. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting.

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Montlandrie was one of the hidden gems of Durantou’s lineup this vintage. Now in bottle, it retains a wonderful, expressive, vivacious bouquet of black and red fruit and hints of violet and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied, with pliant, very fine tannins and a perfect line of acidity. Intense yet finessed, leading…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Deep, glistening ruby. Expansive cherry, cassis, potpourri, exotic spice and cracked pepper scents on the intensely perfumed nose; subtle licorice, tobacco and vanilla qualities add complexity. Deep, sweet and penetrating on the palate, offering intense, spice- and smoke-tinged red and dark berry compote, violet pastille and cola flavors that become livelier with air. The floral…