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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 100-$1,400) Full ruby-red. Explosive, superripe aromas of black raspberry, currant, graphite and tobacco leaf. Outsized, opulent and generous; this big boy saturates the entire mouth. There’s an almost exotic character to the plum and cedar flavors. Spreads out impressively on the back end, coating the palate with ripe tannins. The 2006 is at once…

2013 Barolo: The Late Releases (Oct 2017)

Colla’s 2013 Barolo Bussia Dardi Le Rose is a knock-out. Intensely sweet and perfumed, the 2013 reminds me of some of the most profound Barolos and Barbarescos I have tasted. Ripe red cherry, pipe tobacco, mint, dried rose petal, orange peel and anise are some of the endless nuances that seem to develop in the…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Dark violet. Smoke- and spice-accented cherry, blackberry, vanilla and mocha aromas show fine definition and pick up a hint of pipe tobacco as the wine stretches out. Sweet and expansive on the palate, offering intense dark berry, cherry-vanilla and licorice flavors that are sharpened by a peppery nuance. Shows strong energy and spicy thrust on…

2010 and 2009 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2012)

Opaque purple. Complex, highly fragrant aromas of candied dark fruits, cola, incense and violet, with bright mineral and spice nuances adding lift and energy. Stains the palate with deep blackberry and boysenberry flavors that expand and gain sweetness with aeration. Refuses to let up on the finish, which leaves peppery spice and floral pastille notes…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(an assemblage of eight parcels): Bright pale yellow. Peach and spices on the inviting nose. A supple, rather elegant fruit bomb on the palate; less rich but more spicy and delineated than the village Chassagne-Montrachet, with a touch of salty minerality adding grip to its bright yellow fruits. A step above the Chassagne in lift…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Brilliant ruby. Intensely perfumed black raspberry, cherry, exotic spice and smoky mineral aromas are complemented by a hint of pungent flowers. Lively, palate-staining red and blue fruit preserve, baking spice and floral pastille flavors show excellent detail and mineral lift on the back half. Finishes on an emphatic floral note, with strong tenacity and polished…