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Focus on Spain (Sep 2014)

(roughly 85% tempranillo and 15% cabernet sauvignon; aged for a total of seven years in large oak vats, new small barrels, used small barrels and large oak vats to rest before bottling, in that order): Inky ruby: doesn’t look like a ten-year old wine. A heady, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe red and dark berries,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Deep ruby-red. Explosive aromas of wild black fruits, coffee and smoked meat. Dense and fat but on the dry side, with flavors of currant, leather, chocolate and tobacco leaf, along with some dusty oak tones on the back. Best on the nose.

2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

Full red-ruby. Black raspberry, leather, animal fur and coffee on the nose. Pliant and deep, with good but not outstanding structure and grip. Still, this is the chewiest and richest of these ’99s, and the smoothest on the back end.

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1978 Latour, served from ex-château double magnums, is a wine that I have encountered several times over the years. Of course, provenance plays its part, likewise the large format, yet I remain unconvinced that this is a top-flight Latour. At least the bouquet is fresh with cedar and pencil lead aromas, commendably detailed considering…

Le Miracle de Haut-Brion (Dec 2014)

The 1959 Haut-Brion is, in my view, the most moving of the utterly profound wines on the table. Ripe and flamboyant, the 1959 races across the palate with kirsch, mint, licorice and tobacco, all in an unctuous, flashy style that captivates all the senses. A darker and more voluptuous version of the 1961, the 1959…

The Year of Jazz & Wine: 1959 (Nov 2020)

The 1959 Haut-Brion is deep in color. It is blessed with a truly fabulous nose of mulberry, desiccated orange peel, star anis and here, a faint touch of hickory. It is ebullient and decadent, much more than the 1961 for example. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and lower acidity than other coeval vintages….