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2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Good medium red. Highly perfumed nose combines raspberry, strawberry, cocoa powder, white pepper, blood orange and a resiny headshop spiciness. Pungent, complex and weightless; a wonderfully lively, delicate wine with sneaky intensity and superb penetrating energy and lift. Finishes dry and understated. Suave rather than large. My recorked bottle lost some verve with 24 hours,…

Vinous Table: Trivet, London, UK (Aug 2021)

There was only one way to finish: by switching over to Sauternes for the 2007 d’Yquem. This is a vintage I have tasted several times. Lucid amber in color, it has a reticent nose at first, though it blossoms with aeration to reveal captivating aromas of mirabelle, dried honey and beeswax. A subtle adhesive scent…

2007 and 2005 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2008)

(14% alcohol with 140 g/l r.s.; 70% semillon and 30% sauvignon blanc) Pale gold. Knockout nose of mirabelle, pineapple, spices and honey. Dense and thick but with racy acidity leavening the wine’s liqueur-like flavors of peach, apricot and pineapple and imbuing it with superb energy. With aeration, this showed captivating notes of vanilla, toast and…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Le Petit-Mouton is a pretty wine, but it is also ready to drink. In 2005, Le Petit-Mouton has a higher percentage of Franc in the blend, which comes through in its lighter structure and overall profile. Time in the glass brings out pretty notes of cedar, sweet pipe tobacco and mint. Any remaining…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

(60% cabernet sauvignon, 20% cabernet franc and 20% merlot) Ruby-red. Pungent aromas of currant, lead pencil, minerals and flowers. Juicy, floral and precise, with a penetrating flavor of blackcurrant. In a leaner style but with lovely sweetness of fruit and some incipient complexity suggesting that this will be drinkable within four or five years. Very…

1996 Champagne – For The Ages (Oct 2014)

One of the most pleasant surprises of the night, the 1996 Le Clos Saint Hilaire, is striking. Crushed flowers, mint, autumn leaves and sweet berries all lift from the glass. Sweet, pliant and generous, the 1996 shows exceptional balance and purity. I don’t see the 1996 as a super long-term ager, but it is fabulous…