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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

(60% cabernet and 40% merlot): Full, deep red-ruby. Highly perfumed nose combines blackberry, licorice, menthol and medicinal herbs. Sweet, supple and fine-grained for a wine from this property, with strong primary dark berry and chocolate flavors complicated by nuances of herbs, tobacco leaf and leather. Plenty of supporting acidity to give clarity to the mid-palate….

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep purple-ruby. Initially muted on the nose, opening slowly to reveal hints of fresh blackcurrant and smoky sassafras. Then much sweeter and juicy in the mouth, with superripe blackberry, blueberry and mineral flavors. Finishes with sneaky concentration and good length, with youthfully aggressive tannins. I would have scored this even higher except for a nagging…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1995 Brane-Cantenac was picked September 18–29 at 46hl/ha. It has long been the high point of what, in retrospect, was a challenging decade for this Margaux estate. The gorgeous, slightly herbal bouquet is very engaging, featuring plenty of red berry fruit mixed with bay leaf and mint. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin,…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Fabulous smoky, roasted, black fruit and tobacco nose, with a sappy urgency. Like liquid velvet in the mouth; gives a saline impression of extract. Very fresh and bright, with uncanny sweetness. Explosive finishing fruit buries the uncommonly fine tannins. One of the very few ’94s that truly stains the palate.

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Good deep red. Thoroughly ripe aromas of redcurrant, Cuban tobacco and chestnut. Lovely purity and delineation of flavor; lively and intense. Finishes with ripe, very fine tannins and impressive persistence. The finish still hints at youthful austerity. A star of the vintage.

Vinous Table: The River Café, London, UK (Oct 2021)

The 1998 Palmer showed extremely well. Featuring blackberry, cedar and a touch of black olive on the nose, this has evolved a little since I last tasted it, yet it remains wonderfully defined. The palate is supple and concentrated, with touches of clove and black pepper infusing the black fruit, and gentle grip on the…