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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good deep red. Expressive aromas of currant, plum, tobacco, truffle and smoked meat. Flamboyantly ripe and sexy, with surprising vinosity giving shape to the fleshy flavors of raspberry, smoked meat, tobacco, truffle and minerals. Utterly captivating on the long, mellow finish, throwing off notes of sandalwood, woodsmoke, cocoa and tobacco.

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

The 2006 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Brut is simply fabulous. In most vintages, Dom Ruinart is a big, ample Champagne that shows the structure of the Montagne de Reims Chardonnay in the blend. The 2006 has plenty of textural resonance and richness, and yet I am also struck by its tension. Both bottles I…

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

Interestingly, the 2009 Extra Brut Grand Vintage Rosé is quite a bit tighter and pointed than the Blanc. Here, it is the wine’s energy and tension that stand out most. It will be interesting to see if the 2009 gains a bit more volume over time. Even today, though, the 2009 is beautifully resonant and…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2012 Grand Vintage is a very pretty, high-toned Champagne. Surprisingly nervous for this radiant vintage, the 2012 is going to need a bit of time to be at its best. Some of that may be attributable to early release of the 2012, which was bottled after only five years on its lees rather than…

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

A wine of exquisite beauty, the 2004 Dom Ruinart Brut Rosé has the pedigree to drink well for several decades. The 2004 is an especially vinous, textured Rosé. The berry, floral, spice and mineral-drenched flavors are finely sketched in this dramatic, strikingly beautiful Rosé from Ruinart.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Red-ruby. Expressive aromas of currant, leather, game and tobacco, with a whiff of band-aid. Sweet and smooth on entry, then a bit green and dry-edged in the middle palate, with notes of tobacco, leather and meat. Seems dryer in bottle, and far less primary, than the sample I tasted in the spring of 2004.