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2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Good bright ruby-red. Subdued but pure aromas of plum, flowers, licorice, menthol and Asian spices. Suave on entry, then dry and tight in the middle; extremely backward and shut down. Most impressive now for its finesse of texture. But today there’s little sign of the fleshiness the wine showed in the spring after the harvest….

2014 Roederer Cristal (Feb 2022)

The 2014 Cristal is another in a long line of gorgeous wines from Roederer and long-time Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon. A dazzling, vibrant Champagne, the 2014 impresses with a stunning combination of fruit density and linear energy that brings to mind a hypothetical blend of 2012 and 2008. At times, the bubbles feel totally…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2014 Cristal is a dark horse, a wine built along linear lines rather than opulence, and from a year that generated very little enthusiasm at the time. A cold, wet summer and attacks from the Suzuki fly at harvest were among the challenges producers dealt with. And yet, the best wines turned out far…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2014 Cristal is a dark horse, a wine built along linear lines rather than opulence, and from a year that generated very little enthusiasm at the time. A cold, wet summer and attacks from the Suzuki fly at harvest were among the challenges producers dealt with. And yet, the best wines turned out far…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(from vines in the highest part of Mazoyères): Healthy dark red. Aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, licorice, anise and bitter chocolate show less floral character than the Combottes. Rich, fine-grained and deep, conveying a chocolatey ripeness but coming across as a bit earth-bound, with a slightly more rustic texture than the Combottes. This plush…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2002 Gruaud Larose has a straightforward tobacco and sous-bois scented bouquet that simply needs more fruit and more presence. Quite austere. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly coarse texture and fine acidity, but some rusticity towards the finish feels a bit shallow. Not bad, though the bottle encountered just a year earlier certainly…