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2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Lagrange is an open-knit, charming Pomerol. Bright floral notes lead into a core of raspberry coulis, blood orange, mocha and star anise. Medium in body and silky, with terrific energy as well as persistence, Lagrange is very nicely done.

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Lagrange (this is the Pomerol "branch") has a slightly disjointed bouquet that displays just a touch of herbaceousness underneath the carapace of black fruit; it doesn’t quite knit together. The palate is medium-bodied with hints of espresso and dark chocolate. There is a slight lactic texture to this Lagrange, and it feels a…

Bordeaux 2010: The Sweet Wines (Aug 2011)

Bright, pale yellow-gold. Captivating aromas of tropical fruits, vanilla and creme br u lee are complicated by honeyed botrytis. Enters the mouth smooth, balanced and fresh, showing building sweetness and complexity to its pure, rich mango, papaya, ginger and citrus flavors. This large-scaled Sauternes admirably combines power and grace, finishing pure and long. Jean-Rene Martignon,…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Suduiraut has an attractive bouquet with notes of Mirabelle, jasmine and saffron infusing the upfront honeyed fruit. This is no shy retiring wallflower. The palate is well balanced with a viscous opening, lightly spiced with a pleasant bitter note that lends tension on the finish. Good length, this is a very fine 2010…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good full red. Reticent aromas of plum, leather, licorice and menthol. Big, rich, tactile and backward, with medicinal redcurrant and licorice flavors dominating. In a more classic style than the Colonnello but still with the generosity of the 2009 vintage. The very long, echoing but extremely backward finish features huge, broad, chewy tannins and penetrating…

2009 Barolo: Highs and Lows (May 2013)

An aromatically beguiling wine, the 2009 Barolo Cicala is laced with dark plums, truffles, tar, incense and a host of other balsamic-infused aromas. Today, the fruit lies a bit in the background, while the wine’s aromatics and overall structure are much more in evidence. I imagine the 2009 will require at least a few more…