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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Gruaud Larose has an attractive bouquet with brambly black fruit, freshly tilled loam and melted tar scents that gently unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and a superb line of acidity that keeps this Saint-Julien tensile from start to finish. Plenty of energy here and beautifully proportioned, this…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright red-ruby. Blackcurrant, smoke, tobacco and leather on the nose, with hints of game and earth. Round, lush and seamless in the mouth; shows an animal aspect yet comes across as civilized owing to well-judged extraction. Enticing sweetness to the flavors of dark and red berries and wild herbs, lifted by a note of candied…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2002 Cristal is just entering its first plateau of maturity. Ripe, exotic and striking, the 2002 is all class. Apricot jam, ginger, spice, dried flowers and mint open first as the 2002 shows off its alluring personality. Pretty floral accents, apple tart and brioche build with time in the glass, bringing out added dimensions…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Bright light yellow. Ripe but reticent nose shows a smoky quality. Concentrated, rich and sweet but with a slight alcoholic warmth (14%) to its flavors of white peach and citrus fruits. Barnier describes this wine as a Meursault Charmes with less freshness. It’s fatter than that wine but could use a bit more firmness.

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

One of the unquestioned stars of the vintage, the 2014 Vieux Château Certan soars out of the glass with aromatic intensity, bright acids and finely sculpted fruit. Cool, intense but very much reserved in the style of the year, the 2014 exudes class. The flavors are intense and vibrant throughout. Dark red and purplish-hued stone…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Vieux-Château Certan has an attractive bouquet with blackberry, clove and truffle aromas, nicely defined though it seems to have closed up a little since I tasted it just after bottling. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a keen thread of acidity. The palate shows the real potential, more than the nose…