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A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Calon-Ségur has a perfumed, floral bouquet that is wonderfully detailed; raspberry and cranberry fruit flanked by rose petal and subtle iris aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and a crisp line of acidity. This is brisk and focused with a light black pepper note cropping up on the finish, the aftertaste…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Les Forts de Latour has a very perfumed and floral bouquet, beautifully defined, precise and precocious; hints of eucalyptus emerge with time. The palate is well balanced and intense, delivering black fruit laced with mint and tar. The concentrated finish gently grips the mouth. This is only just beginning to show what it…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Very good red-ruby. Exotic aromas of roasted red berries and spices. Sweet, lush, broad and impressively ripe. Flavors of black cherry, licorice and shoe polish are at once classic Pauillac and compellingly exuberant. Complicated by a lovely floral element. Finishes very long, bright and sweet. A superb vintage for this wine.

Vinous Table: Stem, London, UK (May 2018)

The 1975 Ducru Beaucaillou is a vintage that I had not encountered for 15 years but my God, what a wonderful wine! Surely the best between 1970 and 1982, the 1975 is beautifully balanced with ample fruit on the quite precocious nose that is more akin to a 1982 or 1985. Certainly unlike some of…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1975 Ducru-Beaucaillou absolutely shined when Bruno Borie served a bottle at the estate three years ago. There is a little funk on the nose, but there is plenty of fruit behind it, black cherries and boysenberry, cigar box, sage and peppermint. Aeration actually benefits the aromatics and imparts more precision. The palate is medium-bodied…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 500-$2,000) Deep ruby-red. Reticent, brooding aromas of cassis, black plum, graphite and flowers. Then utterly explosive in the mouth, with wonderful sappy complexity of flavor and a thickness of texture that builds and builds toward the back; almost no sign of the new oak here. Offers a near-magical combination of power and refinement, but…