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2012 and 2011 Chablis (Jul 2013)

Pale, bright yellow. Citrus peel, white peach and white pepper on the subdued nose. Tighter and less fleshy than the Foret today, conveying a youthfully imploded character. But this wine boasts adamant minerality and excellent tension. Finishes uncompromisingly dry, even a touch phenolic. In an awkward stage now, and more serious than usual for this…

2013 Chablis: Living on the Edge (Aug 2014)

Today, the 2012 Chablis Montmains comes across as a bit austere and holding back much of its personality, which is not totally surprising considering the 2012s have just been bottled and Montmains is a cooler site.

1996 Champagne – For The Ages (Oct 2014)

One of the more accessible wines of the year today, the 1996 Dom Pérignon impresses for its exceptional balance and class. Lemon peel, white flowers and mint are laced together in the glass. The 1996 is in a terrific place today where it can be enjoyed or cellared for a number of years.

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)

Very pale color. Wonderfully complex, musky aromas of minerals, ginger, lemon, earth, mushroom, smoke and brioche; with aeration, this showed sweaty saline and chicken broth notes that reminded me of Le Montrachet, as well as a captivating topnote of fresh rose petal. Fat, ripe and mouthfilling without being at all heavy. Loaded with flavor and…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

Just weeks after tasting the 2001 Château d’Yquem at the estate, another bottle was served at a lunch in London and it was perfection. The aromatics are practically identical and likewise the palate, but this bottle, which had been decanted, displays a scintilla more tension, perhaps more “vibrancy” that so effortlessly counterbalances the richness. Irrespective…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Château d’Yquem at 20 years old: a legend? It certainly received much adulation on release. As a reminder, it was picked over five tries from September 18 to October 23 and has 150g/L of residual sugar. Limpid gold in color, as you would expect, it looks quite youthful for a Sauternes of this…