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Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1921-2016 (Oct 2017)

The 2013 Pichon Lalande is one of the better wines of this very challenging vintage. There is lovely depth and intensity in the glass, within the context of the year. Scents of sweet tobacco, anise and dried cherry open up nicely. Slightly green, vegetal notes are impossible to look past in this small-scaled Pichon Lalande….

Bring Out Your “Dead”: Pichon-Lalande 1957-2013 (Aug 2022)

The 2013 Pichon-Lalande, according to Nicolas Glumineau, was picked 10 days earlier than he wanted because of the risk of rot, therefore 10 hectares of Merlot was picked in a single day, a Sunday to boot. “It saved us,” Glumineau tells me. It has a light, fragrant, slightly briny bouquet. Just a little herbaceousness coming…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

Bright red-ruby. Perfumed blackcurrant, raspberry, gunflint and minerals on the precise nose. Juicy, pure and minerally, with a floral flavor and some oaky torrefaction notes nicely complementing the red berry and mineral flavors. Not hugely sweet or fleshy, but quite finely delineated and long and pure on the finish. This is the first ever Pichon…

Scaling Heights: Duroché’s Lavaut Saint-Jacques 1969-2019 (Jul 2022)

The 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut Saint-Jacques 1er Cru, which was picked from 30 September into early October, has a fragrant bouquet with brambly red fruit, touches of wild mint, and potpourri that blossoms in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a little spice, quite saline towards the finish that perhaps just needs a…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Healthy dark red. Deep aromas of raspberry, smoked meat, gunflint and mocha, with complicating notes of truffle, leather and underbrush. Fat, rich and pliant, showing an attractive restrained sweetness to its flavors of raspberry, redcurrant, game and underbrush. The Champeaux is more airy but this is rounder and plumper, not to mention larger-scaled. Finishes with…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Ségla under cork has a very enticing blackberry, raspberry, cedar and orange rind scented bouquet that opens nicely in the glass, gathering momentum with every swirl. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine line of acidity. Quite dense and structured with a judicious dash of spice towards the classy and persistent…