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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

Spotted on a list for a reasonable price, the 1992 Haut-Brion really did not do much for me. Light and austere on the nose with faint Monte Cristo cigar scents, it begs the question: where’s the fruit? The palate is slightly better with a modicum of finesse, yet it feels hollow and dries towards the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Haut Brion is another vintage that I have not seen for a number of years. It has a light, maybe slight smudged nose that is quite leafy in style, autumnal, hints of bay leaf and a light marine influence developing but never quite delivering the vigor of its sibling, the 1988 La Mission…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(35% cabernet franc, 35% cabernet sauvignon and 30% merlot) Deep ruby-red. Ripe aromas of blackberry and cassis along with oak-derived clove, cinnamon and coriander. Soft and supple on entry, with flavors similar to the aromas, then increasingly austere toward the back, finishing with mounting tannins and a persistent floral quality. There’s plenty of ripe fruit…

A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

The 2010 Figeac has a deep hue. The nose is quite introverted at first, with dark berry fruit, incense, touches of fig and mulberry. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity, gorgeous pure fruit, mulberry and dark plum, gentle considering the vintage. This 2010 has softened in the last couple of…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Cassis, blueberry, flowers and clove on the precise, vibrant nose. Then tight and imploded on the palate, with an almost minty, peppery austerity to the black and blue fruit flavors; hardly your typical 2010! This very pure, spicy Saint-Emilion has the structure of a cabernet, and its youthfully forbidding tannins call for at…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Cheval Blanc Blanc is a white of real depth and structural intensity. Citrus peel, almond, sage, mint and white pepper notes are highly nuanced and varietal in this 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Powerful and energetic in the glass, with terrific vibrancy, the 2016 has a lot to offer. Blocked malolactic fermentation and twenty months…