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Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Capbern is a wine that I did not score out of barrel because of some disquieting overripeness on the nose. Now in bottle, that is less evident, but I find it a little flat compared to other vintages, missing a little energy. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and a bit hard….

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Nov 2020)

The 2011 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is bright and perfumed, with lovely Chardonnay energy driving the citrus, floral and savory notes. In 2011, Clos des Goisses is a touch lithe, but its balance is simply impeccable. Given the challenges of the year, I would not push my luck on aging. If there is one wine…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 63/37 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 13.5% alcohol; IPT 70) Medium-deep ruby. The delicately scented nose is classic Pauillac: blackcurrant, violet, cedar and graphite. Enters smooth and seamless, with lively acids nicely lifting the blackberry, plum and smoky mineral flavors. Refined and restrained Pauillac, finishing sleek and long, with very smooth tannins and…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Duhart-Milon is recalcitrant on the nose, refusing to give much away in terms of aromas. Loamy, peaty scents emerge with time amongst the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, fresh in the mouth with good salinity. There is something estuarine about this Pauillac that lends it personality and its grip…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Pontet Canet has a precocious bouquet with blueberry, cassis, crushed violet and pastille-like fruit, perhaps more delineation than its peers. There’s a nice focus here. The palate is well balanced with finely-knit tannins, a sorbet-like freshness, lightly spiced with hints of bacon fat emanating from that notorious warm summer. With a brightness on…

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 1990 Léoville-Poyferré is a wine that I have drunk on several occasions over the years. This ex-château example has a slightly rustic nose, maybe with a touch of VA, though the aromatics are stuffed with so much fruit that you cannot help but fall for its charms. Touches of mint and melted dark chocolate…