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Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

Medium red-ruby. Perfumed aromas of blackberry, espresso, licorice and vanilla, plus a hint of mocha reduction. Enters the mouth lush, sweet and deep, offering an almost glyceral texture that’s lifted by harmonious acidity. The blackberry and sweet spice flavors are straightforward and clean, but seem a little diffuse on the big, broad finish. This is…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Lascombes is more powerful on the nose, a mixture of red and black fruit, meat juices, desiccated orange peel, even a hint of marmalade with time. Quite attractive. The palate is medium-bodied and compact with fine-grain tannins, well-judged acidity and good weight. It shows more freshness on the finish than its peers. This…

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(tasted from tank): Pure, cool aromas of citrus fruits and crushed stone complicated by a leesy quality. Spicy, smoky and tight, in fact almost rigid today owing to its rocky minerality. Very fine-grained and very 2010 in style. Finishes firm, subtle and long.

Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillons fleshes out beautifully in the glass with layers of expressive, textured fruit. This is one of the more open, forward wines in the lineup. It should drink nicely pretty much upon release. Yellow stone fruits, flowers and a hint of spice wraps around the soft, enveloping finish, where the minerality of…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2018 Yquem was tasted just a few months earlier before this second reading at the château. My notes are pretty consistent with that dried honey and saffron scented aromas, perhaps just missing the energy conveyed by the previous vintage. The palate is well balanced with that telltale lusciousness that I remarked upon in my…

2018 Château d’Yquem (Sep 2020)

The just-released 2018 Château d’Yquem is a pretty, gracious wine. In 2018 d’Yquem is decidedly airy and ethereal in feel. Light apricot, passion fruit, spice, tangerine oil, orange peel, jasmine and pear accents are layered throughout. Residual sugar is 145 grams per liter, which is not especially evident. I tasted the 2018 over the course…