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2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Enclos Tourmaline is impressive. A rich, heady Pomerol, Enclos possesses tremendous depth and richness in both its fruit and tannic structure. Inky dark fruit, chocolate, licorice and mocha abound. The 2020 needs time for the searing tannins to soften, but it appears to have a very bright future. It is one of the…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Enclos Tourmaline was picked on September 16 at 32hl/ha and matured entirely in new oak. It has a chiseled bouquet, beautifully defined and focused, unfurling gradually to reveal blackberry, blueberry, crushed rock and light violet aromas. There is a sense of "weightlessness" about these aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

Pavie is positively striking in 2018. Rich and sumptuous to the core, the 2017 possesses stunning depth and impeccable overall balance. Dark cherry, mocha, plum, spice, new leather and licorice all build as the 2018 shows its allure. Silky, polished tannins round out the finish. This is a stellar showing from the Perse family. The…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pavie is so superior to the Arômes de Pavie that you wonder if they are from the same region! It has a gorgeous bouquet of enticing scents of black cherries, blueberry and blood orange, evolving more cassis notes with aeration and becoming a little more exotic. The palate is medium-bodied with a candied,…

Cellar Favorite: 2015 Soldera Sangiovese (May 2021)

Soldera’s 2015 Sangiovese is superb. The aromatics alone are pure seduction. Sweet floral notes, cedar, tobacco and a hint of spice open first. Deceptively medium in body, the 2015 is translucent and weightless, with plenty of acid and tannin that drive the mid-palate and a finish laced with all sorts of red-toned fruits. The 2015…

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

Purity of fruit is the standout as the 2016 Sangiovese blossoms in the glass. This is classic in every sense of the word, with violet and rose florals, dried strawberries, hints of blood orange and crushed rocks. It’s sleek and textural, yet not weighty, instead impressing with its nervous acidity, as tart red berries and…