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Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2004 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs is Bruno Paillard’s Pinot Noir/Chardonnay blend vinified in oak. Rich and powerful in the glass, the 2014 is still tightly wound, despite having been disgorged more than two years ago. Vinification in oak gives the 2004 quite a bit of power and resonance to play off the freshness…

Vinous Table: Veuve Clicquot Retrospective at Marea, New York (Nov 2015)

Almonds, pastry and brioche are some of the notes that open up in 1989 Brut Cave Privée. The warm, resonant style is hugely appealing. Hints of toast and spice add complexity in a Champagne of pure texture and breadth. This is another terrific showing from Veuve Clicquot.

Grand Cru Culinary Wine Festival 2015 (Mar 2016)

Vivid and towering in the glass, the 2012 Richebourg hits the palate with serious depth and overall intensity. Pomegranate, dark cherry, chalk, mint and wild flowers are front and center. Bright, primary and unbelievably intense, the 2012 is fascinating to taste today for educational purposes, but it will be many years before the wine is…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Bright, full red. Wilder and blacker on the nose than the RSV and also a bit reduced, offering scents of cassis, licorice, violet and bitter chocolate. Densely packed, sappy and sweet, offering a distinctly three-dimensional texture to its intense dark berry, spice and truffley underbrush flavors. The slowly mounting, precise, firmly tannic finish is still…

Vertical Tasting of Trimbach’s Riesling Frederic Emile (Sep 2013)

(12.8% alcohol; 8 g/l total acidity; 3 pH; 4.8 g/l residual sugar): Gold-tinged straw-yellow. Perfumed nose combines white flowers, talcum powder and lemongrass, not unlike a dry Mosel riesling. The palate offers outstanding precision and lift to the pristine flavors of white peach, green apple and crushed stone. Starts out taut and very crisp, then…

Alsace’s 2005 Vintage (Jul 2007)

Pale color. Complex nose combines dusty stone, quinine and lime blossom, with a note of white grapefruit emerging with aeration. Began quite tight and citric, but with time in the glass this showed a creamy texture without any loss of inner-palate energy. Almost painfully brisk on the finish. I’d expect a wine like this to…