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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Clos du Marquis is consistent with my tasting note from barrel. It has a perfumed, camphor-tinged bouquet featuring plenty of brambly red fruit, and maybe just a hint of dark chocolate loitering in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and quite saline in the mouth with fine depth. It is…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Deep red-ruby. Black fruits and a minty nuance on the nose. Juicy, minty and tight, with good purity and definition to the slightly medicinal black fruit flavors. Not a fleshy style but offers good energy and finishes with rather supple tannins.

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Medium red-ruby. Sappy, slightly medicinal aromas of kirsch, violet, cherry pie and minerals. Supple but distinctly cool, with slightly grapey flavors of black cherry, minerals, tobacco and violet firmed by a mineral edge and plenty of acidity. Finishes a bit inky, with limited sweetness. Will this turn drier before it’s in bottle?

Focus on Spain (Sep 2014)

(all tempranillo, aged for 16 months in French oak, 50% of it new): Saturated ruby. An exotically perfumed bouquet evokes fresh raspberry, cherry-cola, Asian spices and smoky minerals. Juicy, penetrating and seamless on the palate, offering intense red and dark fruit and spicecake flavors given spine by zesty minerality. The spicy quality gains power with…

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Deep, saturated ruby. Intensely spicy aromas of blackberry, bitter cherry, tobacco and minerals, with a complicating note of black pepper that became more pronounced with air. This is quite fresh and lively for the vintage, showing tangy red and dark berry flavors and a solid, chewy texture. Finishes with considerable finesse.

2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

Saturated ruby. Deep, pure, extremely primary aromas of blackberry, blueberry, licorice and camphor, along with a suggestion of exotic spices. Quite suave on entry, then huge, sweet and superconcentrated, coating every nook and cranny of the palate. With an almost medicinal austerity, this very young Hermitage is almost bitter-edged today. But its impressive fullness in…