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Chablis 2016 & 2015: Quality Over Quantity (Aug 2017)

(a domain wine, done in two 600-liter demi-muids and one 400-liter barrel, all used; 50 hectoliters per hectare produced): Pale, bright yellow. Yellow peach and nectarine fruit aromas are accented by nutmeg, fennel and Espelette pepper. Nicely concentrated, broad and ripe, offering good energy to its ripe peach fruit. Not a hugely intense wine but…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2011)

(75% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot, 8% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; ph 3.61; IPT 53; 12.1% alcohol; 90% new oak): Deep, saturated ruby-red with a hint of garnet at the rim. Floral nose offers aromas of red cherry, orange rind, cedar and aromatic herbs. Big, dense and concentrated, with ripe red cherry and plum…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Pichon Lalande has a fragrant bouquet with blackberry, wild hedgerow and cedar aromas, although personally I was expecting a little more fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, a more savory style of Pichon Lalande with sage, white pepper and a noticeable undergrowth note towards the dry, quite masculine finish. Perhaps I…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Moderately saturated medium red. Slightly shallow aromas of currant, chocolate, leather and smoky oak. Then fruity, suave and gentle, with subtly sweet flavors of cassis, licorice and lead pencil. Finishes with sneaky length and rather silky tannins for the vintage.

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1996 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I have not tasted for a number of years. Matured in two-thirds new oak, it has an open and expressive bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, estuarine scents, touches of liquorice emerging with time. It is higher-toned than the 1995 with iodine evolving with aeration. The…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright medium ruby. Deep, superripe aromas of dark berries, black cherry and bitter chocolate; slightly exotic crystallized fruit aspect. Dense, sweet and wonderfully rich; a lovely combination of palate-caressing chocolatey fruit and firm underlying structure. Finishes with excellent grip and great palate-saturating sweetness. Another outstanding 1996 Medoc wine in the making. Drink 2010 through 2030.