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2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

(14% alcohol) Medium red. Complex nose combines briary red and black fruits, mint, spices and fresh herbs. Juicy and fine, with enticing inner-mouth perfume. A very firm wine whose underlying flesh is currently dominated by its mineral spine. But finishes suave and long, with sweet tannins and very good freshness and grip.

1998 and 1997 Red Burgundies (Mar 2000)

Good medium-deep red. Complex aromas of raspberry, cinnamon, mocha, spice, smoke and beefsteak tomato. Spicy, velvety and mouthfilling; not quite as fine as the estate ’96 but thick and rich. Has just enough acidity to maintain its balance. Finishes with lush tannins and very good length.

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep red-ruby color. Liqueur-like aromas of currant, cedar, lead pencil, truffle and smoked meat. Magically sweet and silky in the mouth, with superb depth of flavor and a complete absence of rough edges. A huge wine with utterly compelling sweetness and great terroir character. Powerful if somewhat unrestrained. Finishes ripely tannic, long and sweet. Many…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1982 Pichon-Lalande has a very pure bouquet, sensual and beautifully defined, featuring blackberry and hints of graphite, and later crushed violet, so that the aromatics are almost Margaux-like. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly edgy, balsamic-tinged entry. There is great depth, focus and power here, though in recent encounters I find the secondary…

Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1921-2016 (Oct 2017)

Another dazzling wine, the 1982 Pichon Lalande is utterly profound from the very first taste. In the glass, the 1982 is powerful and explosive, with seemingly endless layers of flavor that continue to unfurl over time. Vivid, intensely aromatic and seamless, the 1982 has enough pedigree and depth to drink well for at least several…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a benchmark vintage for the estate, although I have not encountered a perfect bottle for around 20 years, when I believe the wine was at its height. Still, this is a lovely Pauillac with plush black and blue fruit on the nose, like before, almost Margaux-like in terms…