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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

I was delighted to taste the 2018 Gruaud Larose, as I missed it en primeur. Ripe and sweet on attack, Gruaud Larose is an especially dense, flamboyant Saint-Julien. Inky red fruit, mocha, wild flowers and spice abound. I find the new oak a bit overpowering, but the 2018 is an undeniably gorgeous and enticing wine.

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Gruaud Larose, which incidentally now comes with a red wax capsule, is initially tightly wound on the nose, offering blackberry, raspberry, touches of juniper berry and a light seaweed note that becomes accentuated with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, and a little lactic on the entry, with a smear of…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2018 Gruaud-Larose has a perfumed bouquet with raspberry and touches of seaweed, opening up a little since I last tasted it. The palate is sweet and plump on the entry with lush red fruit, dark chocolate and candied orange peel. This is an approachable and generous Gruaud-Larose, but as I wrote before, it could…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good red-ruby. Redcurrant, leather and game on the expressive if slightly rustic nose. Sweet and concentrated but a bit youthfully aggressive, and not showing the refinement or definition of the 2006. Strong nutty oak component. Finishes with substantial tannins that are a bit richer and more fully buffered by the wine’s middle-palate material than those…

2006 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2011)

Deep red. Discreet notes hints at cherry pit, dried rose and Indian spices. Densely packed but not at all overly sweet. Rather powerfully built but a bit clenched today. Not really sexy yet, but has the chewy, tactile back end and firm, ripe tannins to reward seven to ten years of cellaring. Quite long and…

2006 Brunello: The Emperor’s New Clothes or Historic Vintage? (May 2011)

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino presents an alluring, seductive bouquet of sweet herbs, licorice, crushed flowers, mint and minerals. This mid-weight, graceful Brunello needs time in the glass to show off its pedigree, but it is a classic, understated wine graced with exquisite finesse. The wine puts on weight with air, filling out its frame…