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2011 Vintage Ports (May 2014)

Bright medium ruby. Knockout nose combines smoky dark fruits, exotic flowers, spices, dried lavender, minerals and a balsamic nuance. Hugely concentrated, dense and primary but with penetrating minerality giving finesse and precision to the mid-palate. Extremely fine-grained, classy wine with fresh acidity and restrained sweetness. The firmly tannic, mineral-tinged finish features outstanding perfumed persistence and…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

One of the real highlights on the Left Bank, the 2005 Mouton Rothschild is a dark, potent Pauillac. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, spice and leather all take shape in the glass. The 2005 is a dense, powerful and explosive wine endowed with tremendous energy and pure power. The fruit is just starting to emerge, but…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 100-$1,400) Full ruby-red. Explosive, superripe aromas of black raspberry, currant, graphite and tobacco leaf. Outsized, opulent and generous; this big boy saturates the entire mouth. There’s an almost exotic character to the plum and cedar flavors. Spreads out impressively on the back end, coating the palate with ripe tannins. The 2006 is at once…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Haut-Bailly is unbelievably finessed from start to finish. A wine of unreal class, the 2005 impresses with its silky, mid-weight personality and fantastic balance. The aromatics aren’t fully expressive today, but everything else about the 2005 is absolutely irresistible. Despite its considerable charm, Haut-Bailly comes across as still needing time in bottle to…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good bright medium ruby. Deep aromas of plum, currant, tobacco, mocha and menthol. Superripe and rich but with superb ripe acidity and firm tannins currently keeping the fruit and mineral elements under wraps. Just this side of severe today: here’s a 2005 that appears already to have shut down in the bottle. Best today on…

In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

Beautifully resonant in the glass, the 2009 Lupicaia is a standout. Sweet red cherries, flowers, mint, anise, savory herbs and spices all ring out in a supple, gracious wine loaded with class. The 2009 needs a few years for some of the contours to soften, but it is a gorgeous wine with tons of personality….