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New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2011)

The 2004 Brut Rosé Cuvée Belle Epoque is a deceptively light-colored wine. It shows off striking inner perfume and richness as the fruit flows across the palate. Sweet red berries, crushed flowers and spices are some of the notes that wrap around the finish. Though medium in body and feminine in style, there is an…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Lafite-Rothschild is surprisingly dark in colour. It also has a surprisingly concentrated bouquet with blackberry, sous-bois and brine. Hints of steaming cups of espresso percolate through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a little chewiness on the entry. Quite briny and saline, a little rustic in terms of tannic profile and perhaps…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Bright, dark ruby-red. Subdued but pure aromas of currant, plum, minerals, graphite, and sexy, coconutty oak; showed a floral note with aeration. Extremely suave, fine-grained and concentrated, with a strong spine of acidity. Finishes firmly tannic, subtle and very long. This should develop slowly.

2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work (Jul 2020)

The 2017 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru is a pretty big step up in this range, both in terms of depth, power and energy. Here the flavors are dark, while there is quite a bit of tannin lurking beneath. Black cherry, graphite, leather, smoke, spice and menthol infuse the 2017 with tons of virile, somber character. Readers…

Complex, Not Complicated: 2017 DRC in Bottle (Feb 2020)

The 2017 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru was picked at 41hl/ha on September 12 and bottled on May 21 and 23, 2019. Given 10–15 minutes to open, it is clearly richer on the nose compared to its petit frère, revealing hints of kirsch, red currant and orange pith and subtle loamy aromas. The palate is medium-bodied,…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru may well be the most perplexing offering from the domaine this year. Backward and reticent on the nose, this is very well-defined, but my word, you have to eke out the light sea cave and limestone scents with rigorous swirling of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied and very…