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2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Suduiraut is elegant, gracious and lifted, as the wines here typically are these days. Apricot, cinnamon, dried flowers, mint and orange peel all grace this wonderfully airy, understated Sauternes. Most importantly, the 2022 is a wine of exquisite balance. The 190 grams of residual sugar is quite a bit higher than the norm…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Deep violet. Smoke- and spice-accented dark berries and cherry on the highly perfumed nose. Lively bitter cherry, blueberry and violet pastille flavors stain the palate, showing fine definition and a supporting spine of tangy acidity. Opens up and deepens on the strikingly long, incisive finish, which features gently chewy tannins and lingering florality.

2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

Opaque ruby. Smoky raspberry, cherry and violet aromas are lifted and sharpened by a suave Indian spice note. Sappy and broad in the mouth, offering sweet red and dark berry flavors and a touch of fruitcake. Warm yet lively, finishing with excellent thrust, supple tannins and persistent spiciness. Philippe Guigal noted that he won’t be…

Cellar Favorite: 1988 Ausone (Apr 2019)

The 1988 Ausone shows extremely well after 31 years. It remains lucid in colour with little ageing on the rim. The bouquet is clean, with so much fruit that it comes across more like a 1989 than a 1988. It sports none of the leanness or greenness one sometimes finds with Right Bank 1988s, just…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good full red. Ripe aromas of cherry, minerals and rose petal. Sweet and juicy, with a bit less density than the Charmois. Bright red fruit and mineral flavors show a medicinal austerity on the back end, suggesting that this firmly tannic, solid wine will reward five or six years of aging.

Vinous Table: Logis de la Cadène, Saint-Émilion (Oct 2018)

For the rest of the meal we polished off an excellent and well-priced 2009 Château d’Aiguilhe since I do not often encounter Stephan von Neipperg’s Côtes de Castillon with maturity. Deep in colour, the 2009 has a gorgeous bouquet that probably reflects the growing season more than the terroir: scents of black fruit, black olive,…