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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good medium-deep ruby-red. Superripe, roasted aromas of black raspberry, chocolate and licorice. Wonderfully dense, sweet and lush, with an early roundness rare for this wine. A monumental St. Estephe with almost confectionery sweetness. Wonderfully horizontal, palate-saturating wine with huge but thoroughly ripe, lush tannins. It’s hard to believe that a wine this rich and deep…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Montrose has much more freshness than the 1983 tasted alongside. With blackberry, boysenberry, wilted iris flower, loam and clove, it’s pretty complex and certainly more complex than the Lafon Rochet. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, grippy tannins, powerful and burly. Firm tannins, this is serious and lacks a little flair and charm…

The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Tychson Hill is seamless, elegant and supremely beautiful. There’s not a thing out of place. Silky tannins wrap around a core of dark-fleshed fruit, with hints of chocolate, spice, leather and dried herbs that make an appearance with time in the glass. The Tychson Hill shows just how magical this vintage…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Vieux Château Certan is a wine of total harmony and finesse. Absolutely nothing is out of place. Supple and seamless, the 2020 is an infant, but it is so impressive. Crème de cassis, lavender, mocha and licorice are some of the many notes that emerge from the glass, but more than anything else,…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

A powerful, vertical wine, the 2020 Vieux Château Certan is endowed with tremendous intensity right out of the gate. Everything about the 2020 is dialed up. The fruit is huge, as are the tannins. Black cherry, licorice, new leather, spice and bittersweet chocolate saturate the palate in a wine that conveys opulence from start to…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Vieux Château Certan was showstopping from barrel sample and, now, in bottle? The nose is exquisitely delineated with perfumed black fruit, crushed rock, hints of pencil box, and a very faint licorice scent in the background. Wonderful focus. The palate has marvelous definition, surfeited with tension from the start. It is a little…