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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Light gold, with a hint of copper. Expansive and powerful on the nose, displaying scents of honey, light toffee, fresh fig and baked apples. Dense and thick, with serious heft; emphatically not an aperitif style of Champagne. The flavors of ripe apple and pear, singed butter and baking spices are concentrated and deep. Boasts a…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)

Very fresh, complex nose combines soft citrus fruits, toast and minerals, with hints of red berries. Penetrating, bright and very intense, with powerful citrus and mineral flavors that turn sweeter toward the back end. The chewy finish of pear and hazelnut really stains the palate. Ultimately quite pliant and harmonious, in the style of the…

2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)

Full ruby. Highly complex nose combines black fruits, gibier, truffle, road tar, licorice and leather. Very intense and spicy, but still tightly wound, with a firm acid spine keeping the flavors under wraps. Very interior wine today, notes Perrin. But one already senses the incipient complexity. Finishes with building tannins, a note of caramel and…

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1995 Petrus is one of the finest vintages of the decade, a silver medal behind the brilliant 1998. This bottle might well constitute the best that I have encountered. It has a beautiful, focused nose with hints of game and humidor infusing the black fruit. With aeration more red fruit becomes evident, allied with…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Saturated red-ruby color. Knockout aromas of black raspberry, melted toffee, minerals and smoky oak. Explosively spicy, mulberry-flavored fruit builds and builds in the mouth. Harmonious acidity gives this extremely rich, large-scaled Petrus great balance for aging. Finishes with substantial but thoroughly ripe tannins and palate-staining length. At this early stage, I rate this wine a…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2000 La Mission Haut-Brion is consistent with my most recent note, although I must admit that I felt there was a touch more brett on the nose than the previous example. Black cherries and iodine to the fore, with some undergrowth and Provençal herbs, it is very complex. The palate is medium-bodied, well balanced…