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Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(disgorged in 2008): Yellow-gold. Explosive aromas of ripe pear, honey, gingerbread and iodine, with intense smokiness and notes of chalky minerals and magnolia. Sappy, palate-staining orchard and pit fruit flavors are braced by exotic spice and mineral qualities, picking up notes of buttery brioche and toasted grain with air. Strikingly dense but energetic too, finishing…

The 2009 White Burgundies (Aug 2011)

The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet Pucelles emerges from the glass with crystalline purity in its finely chiseled fruit. It possesses striking mid-palate energy and focus, with sweet floral notes that add lift on the finish. This is a marvelously symmetrical, well-balanced wine loaded with sheer class and personality. Best of all, the Pucelles offers tremendous potential for…

2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Medium yellow. Ripe stone fruit and honey on the nose. Fat and sweet but not quite as large-scaled as the Combettes, showing stone fruit and spice flavors. Best today on the insidiously long finish, which really saturates the palate with flavor. Plenty of verve here; still, I’d serve most of these 2009s a bit cooler…

Vintage Retrospective: The 2007 Napa Valley Cabernets (May 2017)

Dark medium ruby. Musky dark berries, earth and iron on the nose, plus a suggestion of coffee reduction. In a very sweet style, almost cloying on the front end, then the chewy tannins cut off the fruit on the back. A slightly exotic, medicinal, thick Cabernet that’s a bit exaggerated for my taste. Very 2007,…

Vintage Retrospective: The 2007 Napa Valley Cabernets (May 2017)

Dark medium ruby. Musky dark berries, earth and iron on the nose, plus a suggestion of coffee reduction. In a very sweet style, almost cloying on the front end, then the chewy tannins cut off the fruit on the back. A slightly exotic, medicinal, thick Cabernet that’s a bit exaggerated for my taste. Very 2007,…

2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

Ineffable perfume to the aromas of lemon, lime, lavender and crushed stone. Juicy, tangy and youthfully tight, with a distinctly dusty, extract-rich texture to the flavors of citrus peel, flowers, fleur de sel and minerals. A classic Corton-Charlemagne from vines harvested late (Colin has two sources, one in Aloxe and the other in Pernand; the…