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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Petrus is every bit as grand as I thought it could be. A wine with no start and no end, the 2018 envelops all the senses from the very first taste. It is at times intellectual, while in other moments more hedonistic, but it is always a total turn-on. Silky and layered, with…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pétrus, matured in 50% new oak, was assessed over a period of 24 hours. It has a magnificent nose, replete with intense black currant, crushed violet and vanilla-y scents, the latter becoming subsumed with modest aeration. These aromas are chiseled to the nth degree and as harmonious as the Everly Brothers. The palate…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

Very deep, almost inky ruby. Very ripe aromas of black cherry jam, prune and licorice show a liqueur-like, roasted quality. Enters the mouth like a sweet, supple fruit bomb, with flavors of red cherries and figs macerated in alcohol framed by mocha and sweet spices, then turns quite tannic and drying on the back. Finishes…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Certan de May has a slightly disjointed bouquet compared to the 2010 Clos l’Eglise, broodier and more introspective, but eventually reveals attractive truffle and morel aromas, hints of warm gravel or red bricks. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, taut and crisp with a slightly attenuation towards…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good bright red-ruby. Wild, old-school aromas of spicecake, loam, game and caramel, with a floral element emerging with air. Then sweeter in the mouth, with dark raspberry and beefsteak tomato merlot notes complicated by blueberry and minerals from the cabernet franc component. Finishes fine-grained, suave and dry, with very good spine. This one will need…

Vinous Table: Private Dinner at Wheeler Farms, Saint Helena, CA (Feb 2023)

Bollinger’s 2014 La Grande Année is a great way to start the evening as guests mill around Wheeler Farms. It is early evening in Napa, but there is still plenty of action in the winery, where various lots are being pressed under the watchful eye of winemaker Nigel Kinsman. There are some moments where I…