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Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(a roughly 50/50 blend of merlot and cabernet franc): Full, dark ruby-red. Cool, aromatic, slightly medicinal nose combines black fruits, coffee and menthol. Then bright and fresh in the middle; less densely packed than any other post-WWII wine in this tasting, but fruity and pliant, with a silky texture. Finishes long, with substantial building tannins…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Cheval Blanc is a wine that I had not encountered for some time, this bottle not poured at the château but at a dinner in London. It’s a decent if unremarkable Saint-Émilion that leans towards the Left Bank on the nose. The Cabernets are more expressive than the Merlot. The palate is balanced…

Vinous Event: Soldera Vertical in London (Oct 2016)

It’s not easy to follow the 1990 Riserva, but the 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is more than up to the challenge. Bright, translucent and beautifully focused throughout, the 2006 is all about energy and delineation. It is remarkably accessible for a young Soldera.

Soldera Redux: 1981-2006 (Oct 2016)

This is not an especially strong showing from the 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. There is good energy in the glass, but the aromatics are strongly volatile, while the tannins are forbidding. I have tasted the 2006 many times, but have never come across a bottle as disjointed as this one.

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a clean, precise bouquet, fresh, taut and understated compared to its peers, perhaps the most elegant of an octet of Chevaliers tasted blind. The well-balanced palate delivers real power, offering flavors of candied orange peel and spices and a fine saline undercurrent. Harmonious, elegant yet intense, this should age…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

Precise, high-pitched scents of lemon and lime ice and crushed rock. The palate communicates outstanding stony, limey intensity that’s accentuated by an impression of strong acidity. But despite its penetrating cut and low pH (3.15, according to Pierre Vincent), the wine’s spine is covered by adequate flesh, even in the early going. Flavors of pineapple…