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2012 and 2011 Chablis (Jul 2013)

Reduced aromas of ripe apple, pepper, spearmint and crushed stone. Broad and rich; less obviously mineral than the 2012 version but the ripe, intense pineapple flavor will give this wine good early accessibility. Finishes with a firm stony edge.

2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

Pale, bright yellow. Peach and spicy oak on the nose. Sweet, fleshy and rather opulent, with a fine-grained texture and superb concentration. Very ripe but refined wine. Coche told me these vines suffered in the late June heat spike, but I don’t find the wine obviously marked by heat. Aged in 30% new oak.

The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)

The 2011 Meursault Caillerets is intensely pointed and mineral, but today doesn’t have the sheer appeal of some of the other wines in the range. With a little air, the Caillerets fleshes out nicely, but it remains a wine of tension. Crushed rocks and bright fruit nuances linger on the close.

2013 Chablis: Living on the Edge (Aug 2014)

The 2012 Chablis Butteaux is the most aromatically lifted and ethereal of the 1er Crus. Sweet floral notes meld into white orchard fruit, mint and slate as this exquisite, delicate wine shows off its personality. It will be interesting to see if the 2012 fleshes out a bit more in bottle, as today it is…

Chablis 2013 and 2012 (Jul 2014)

Pale color. Reticent aromas of citrus peel, white stone fruits and oyster shell, plus a suggestion of oak spice (the Raveneaus used more recent oak barrels for this wine and their Montee de Tonnerre in 2012, according to Bernard). Sappy and alive in the mouth, with terrific mineral lift to the flavors of white peach,…

The Good, Bad and Ugly: Burgundy 2010, 2003 & 2004 (Jun 2020)

The 2010 Meursault Village from Coche-Dury has a fresh, tight bouquet at first, gradually unfurling to reveal shucked oyster shell and sea spray notes that gain intensity over the course of 15-20 minutes. The palate strikes a sublime balance with a domaine-typical judicious line of acidity that keeps this Meursault on its tiptoes. Toward the…