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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru has a stupendous bouquet of brilliantly defined, mineral-infused black and blue fruit, showing laser-like focus and even more complexity than the Bonnes-Mares. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a superb line of acidity and plenty of energy from start to finish. This is a very harmonious and…

Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

The 2006 Comtes de Champagne is striking, especially in the way it brings together elements of ripeness and freshness in a hypothetical blend of the 2002 and 2004. Smooth and creamy on the palate, the 2006 is all about texture. There is a real feeling of density and weight in the 2006, qualities I expect…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2011)

The 2002 Brut La Grande Année is marvelous. The 2002 is an understated Grande Année that caresses the palate with layers of effortless, weightless fruit. The mousse is exceptionally fine, which adds to the impression of total elegance. This is a relatively bright, floral Grande Année with plenty of aromatic lift, inner perfume and no…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

(60% pint noir and 40% chardonnay; 71% of the fruit is from grand cru sites and rest from premier crus; disgorged February, 2011): Light gold. Ripe pear and honey on the explosively perfumed nose, with sexy floral and marzipan nuances expanding with air. Fat, full and palate-coating, boasting impressive power and thrust. Shows an intriguing…

The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 1985 Rauzan-Ségla is a vintage that I have tasted several times from bottles I picked up cheaply some years ago. I was particularly effusive about the 1985 although, I feel that it has decayed a little since my last note in 2010. Soft red berry fruit, hedgerow, sage and mushrooms on the loose-knit nose,…