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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Deep ruby. Wonderfully perfumed nose offers cassis, minerals, tobacco, flowers, mocha and truffle. Bright, mineral-driven and concentrated, with terrific underlying backbone giving energy and definition to the dark berry, mineral and chocolate flavors. There’s a floral lift here that’s exhilarating to find in the very ripe 2005 vintage. Finishes very long and classy, with a…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good medium, bright red. Restrained aromas of medicinal cherry, leather and licorice. Sweet and fairly deep, with brooding, slightly coarse flavors of dark raspberry and blueberry. Finishes with dusty, broad tannins and a slight greenness.

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2003 Climens is missing a bit of complexity on the nose, just a little Alsace-like with age, a touch of petrol and quince. The palate is tangy on the entry, fine acidity considering the vintage, yet it lacks complexity and mineralité on the finish. I am not an ardent admirer of this vintage in…

2004 and 2003 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2006)

Medium yellow. Reticent, spicy nose opens slowly to reveal apricot, orange and caramel. Fat, silky and sweet, with the sheer concentration to support its substantial alcohol. Quite unctuous for Climens, with an almost confectionery quality to the fruit. Comes across as less firm than usual for a young Climens, but then today the wine’s structure…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good full deep red. Expressive aromas of roasted red raspberry, tobacco, chocolate and sandalwood; hints of dehydrated fruit. Sweet, fat and smoky, with good depth but only moderate complexity; shows an obvious warm-vintage character. Finishes with fairly sizable tannins and a lingering roasted character.

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Good deep ruby-red. Reticent nose showed some dark cherry with aeration. Densely packed but youthfully closed, even a bit austere today, offering hints of black raspberry and minerals. This is fairly tannic wine (the IPT is 72) but there’s nothing hard about it. My sample gained in sweetness and texture with aeration, although its fruit…