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Champagne: So Much More Than a Celebration Wine (Oct 2012)

The first thing that is evident about the 2000 Brut Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill is its finesse and total silkiness. The 2000 is a rich, creamy and deeply expressive Winston Churchill. I don’t see the 2000 being an especially long-term ager, but it is wonderfully radiant and open today. Hints of pasty, spice, apricots and…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2012)

Light yellow-gold. Spicy, intensely perfumed aromas of lemon curd, blood orange, anise and jasmine, with a toasty overtone. Supple and concentrated, with dried citrus and hazelnut flavors complemented by ginger and buttered toast. A long, subtly floral finish shows a hint of smoky minerality and impressive energy. This is drinking well now, but I suspect…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2012 Dom Pérignon is a dense, powerful wine. I am almost shocked by its vinous intensity and raw, unbridled power. The 2012 reminds me of the 2003, but with more finesse and not quite as pushed. Mildew, rain and frost were challenges and resulted in low yields, something that was further compounded by warm,…

His Father’s Son: Grand Mayne 1955-2011 (May 2021)

The 1989 Grand Mayne was apparently one of Jean-Pierre Nony’s favourite vintages. Perusing three of my own tasting notes, it is also one of mine, though I have tempered my enthusiasm, partly because the standard of Grand Mayne has improved so much since this point. It has a slightly rustic nose, maybe with just a…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Bélair-Monange is ripe and explosive in the glass, with tremendous fruit density and a real sense of power. Exotic spice, mocha, sweet pipe tobacco, cinnamon and floral notes add layers of nuance to a core of super-ripe dark red and purplish fruit in this sumptuous, flamboyantly ripe Saint-Émilion. Soft curves give the 2017…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Bélair-Monange was so impressive out of barrel and now in bottle, I see no reason to alter my appreciation. It has a very intense bouquet, one that is reassuringly complex, especially in context of what was a rather ordinary growing season with copious red cherries, boysenberry, hints of iodine and a light terracotta…