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Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(87% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 1.5% each petit verdot and cabernet franc; 36% of the total crop) Full, bright, purple-tinged ruby. Violet and blackcurrants on the nose; with its dominant black fruits, this is completely different from the Pavillon Rouge, which is all about red fruits. Enters the mouth discreetly, then picks up volume…

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Château Margaux has an attractive bouquet of mulberry, red plum, briary, a hint of rose petal rather than its signature note of violets. It gains intensity with aeration, but to my surprise it feels quite forward for a 10-year old First Growth. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite Pauillac in style…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Deep ruby. Complex nose melds blackberry, minerals, bitter chocolate, graphite and violet. Suave and deep on entry, then fresh and alive in the middle palate, with compelling sweetness and intensity to the black cherry, smoky mineral and tobacco flavors. The smooth finish is long, intense and irresistible. At once serious and sexy.

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Sep 2010)

Deep red. High-pitched aromas of redcurrant, dried cherry, potpourri and spicecake. Silky in texture and alluringly spherical, offering seamless red fruit and floral pastille flavors and late notes of blood orange and Asian spices. Nothing heavy or fat here and yet this delivers the impact of a large-scaled wine. The finish is expansive and extremely…

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

Bollinger’s 2007 Brut La Grande Année is quite pretty. Elegant, restrained and understated in style, the 2007 is one of the more delicate young Grande Années I can remember tasting. Mid-weight structure and silky texture only reinforce that impression. Lemon oil, red berry, dried flowers and chamomile open up nicely, but it is the wine’s…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Château Margaux is a vintage that I have not tasted for a decade. Now at 20 years old it has retained a deep garnet colour with very little ageing on the rim, in fact, one of the most youthful-looking 1998 Left Banks that I encountered. The nose is gorgeous: very well defined with…