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2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Lafite-Rothschild is a gorgeous wine, but it is also very young. Readers lucky enough to own it will find a very classic, gracious Lafite-Rothschild that still needs a few years to be at its best. Bright red-toned fruit, crushed rocks, mint and licorice open first, followed by darker aromas and flavors that develop…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 700-$2,300) Bright medium ruby. Knockout nose combines black- and redcurrant, minerals, graphite, licorice and lavender. Wonderfully suave and seamless, but with great purity and precision of flavor and terrific inner-palate perfume and lift. This dances over every square millimeter of the palate. Almost painfully young today, with an impression of fresh acidity serving to…

Champagne: So Much More Than a Celebration Wine (Oct 2012)

The 1995 Brut Blanc des Millenaires shows just how compelling this often overlooked vintage can be. Layers of lemon, pastry spices, crushed rocks and savory herbs literally jump from the glass in this exquisite, perfumed, beautifully delineated Champagne. The 1995 shows lovely flavor complexity and nuance from its extended time in bottle, yet it also…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)

Pungent, highly complex nose offers ginger, quinine, flowers and oyster shell. Bright, minerally and firm-edged, with exotic suggestions of mango, oran ge and pineapple. Wonderfully precise blanc de blancs, with terrific sweetness of fruit for a dry wine. Finishes long, juicy and nuanced, with a lingering spicy character. Delicious now but capable of gaining in…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

(made from mostly grand cru chardonnay grown in Oger, Melsnil-sur-Oger, Cramant, Avize and some from premier cru Vertus; L138210-3002126): Vivid gold. Heady aromas of candied citrus fruits, flowers, truffle, gingerbread and iodine, with an intensely smoky overtone. Deep, pungent and palate-staining, with the orchard and pit fruit flavors reaching every corner of the palate and…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Subdued but classy new-oaky nose hints at flowers, chocolate, and cinnamon. A spicy, beautifully delineated wine of great class and hidden depths. Very subtle, long aftertaste. A crowd-pleaser. The ’90 is more typical for this château than the fatter but more alcoholic and soft ’89.